Jacek Roznowicz worked for over ten years in the beauty industry in French-speaking Africa for an international brand. Now a consultant, he shares with us his vision of the market, from the sub-region to Ivory Coast.
How would you describe the beauty market in French-speaking Africa?
Africa, in general, is a very dynamic continent where things move very quickly. Everyone wants to be there because the potential is enormous. The cosmetics market in Africa is booming. Consumers are very keen to try and adopt new products, certainly more quickly than elsewhere. African consumers are increasingly attentive to local brands, which, in turn, are evolving in response to consumer demands.
Official data shows that the South African market is by far the largest in Africa, but it is fairly stable. The Nigerian market is almost half the size, but it is growing significantly. Next, the Egyptian and Moroccan markets (the largest French-speaking market) are vying for fourth place, just ahead of Algeria and Kenya.
Which segments are the most promising?
As I said, the cosmetics market is constantly evolving. On the one hand, this is due to improvements in quality of life. On the other hand, consumers are becoming increasingly well informed. We could also add the shortening of the cosmetic product life cycle and increased competition in this segment. All of this means that Africans are increasingly attracted to more prestigious brands and more specific categories (with a more elaborate promise). Finally, the composition is scrutinized. These factors require producers and distributors to constantly be up to the task and transparent.
One more element should be added: the place of production. I am deliberately setting this apart because it is a very subjective factor. While there is no doubt that consumer demands are rising, the "Made in Africa" label will be a more or less decisive factor for everyone.
How can a brand stand out in such a competitive environment?
It is often thought that price is the only purchasing criterion in certain countries where purchasing power is lower. However, purchasing behavior is not an exact science and involves a subjective element that is difficult to measure.
Brand trust, product traceability, the offering, and of course value for money are, in my opinion, the four most important factors in communication. Obviously, these four elements are closely linked. Trust is probably the result of a combination of a tailored offering, accessible traceability, and proven value for money. But it can also be the result of aggressive communication. As consumers, we must therefore remain vigilant and try to share information as much as possible. In other words, we must try to answer the question: "How is a brand that communicates a lot better for me?" or "Is it really better for me?"
How would you describe consumers? What are their expectations? Their habits? Their needs?
The habits of intra-African consumers vary depending on the region and country. And this applies not only to cosmetics, but to all types of products and services.
As a result, there are countries in Africa whose purchasing habits are more similar to those of certain European countries, and others that are less so. This is logical because there are consumers with different skin types (combination, oily, dark, white) everywhere. It is therefore necessary to analyze each market separately and not seek similarities at all costs. Accepting differences is a tremendous opportunity to think outside the box. Let's not forget that all skin needs hydration, regardless of how dark or light it is. In some Asian countries, for example, consumers want to have fair skin, unlike European women who like to show off their tans. So it's one thing and its opposite. Hence the importance of a clear vision and a well-established strategy.
For example, we can see a stronger desire among African women to consume products that are adapted to their standards and consumption patterns, as well as products made in Africa. How should brands position themselves in relation to this? Do they aspire to develop brands in line with the specificities of the local market?
Every woman has specific needs related to her personality, skin type, and mood. We can go even further by saying that there is no such thing as an African woman, but there are many African women. The continent is huge, and reducing African beauty to one type would not be logical.
More generally, I believe that African consumers are becoming increasingly demanding: they want high-quality products that are respectful of the planet, and they are vocal about it. The label "made in France" is seen as a guarantee of quality, and this seems to be true in all African countries, whatever people may say. It can also invoke certain notions from the past that everyone will interpret as they wish—so it's very subjective. In many countries around the world, the notion of "made in…" brings out a sense of belonging that is so sought after by consumers. And that's a good thing. Also, in every country in the world, people are proud of their origins and like to show off the prestigious, often foreign, brands they wear. Isn't this sometimes contradictory to the values we proclaim?
Is there a difference in consumer perception between international and local brands? Are international brands more popular?
I wouldn't say that international brands are more popular. It's up to each individual to judge which brand suits them best and which they want to wear.
It is true, however, that international brands often invest more in communication and, as a result, may seem better known and, for some, more desirable to buy. As I mentioned earlier, it is up to each individual to judge according to their own values and needs.
In terms of communication, what strategies are developed and which media are most commonly used?
This depends on each brand's strategy. And this often differs from one country to another. In some countries, certain brands will choose radio because its penetration rate is attractive. In others, it will be billboards. As for TV, it is a relatively expensive medium—many brands would probably like to be present there, but few do.
On the other hand, it is relatively easy for everyone to be on social media. What is more difficult is having a good strategy for this presence and sticking to it.
What about social media? Is it being used or neglected?
It is easy to use social media, but you have to do it well. This means that without a good strategy and consistency, you can do more harm than good. Let's not forget that everything spreads very quickly and that sometimes the smallest detail in our eyes can be interpreted completely differently in the eyes of others.
There will soon be private TV channels in Côte d'Ivoire. Could this change habits?
At this stage, it seems difficult to say to what extent the arrival of new TV channels will change habits. It depends not only on the vision of those in charge of these channels, but above all on the confidence that consumers on the one hand and advertisers on the other will have in them. Logically, this should lead to a drop in advertising prices by making this channel accessible to brands that could not afford it until recently.
We have estimated the overall hygiene, toiletries, and beauty market in terms of communication at one billion CFA francs in Côte d'Ivoire. Do you think this is realistic or not?
It would have been around €100 million two or three years ago. Even though it is growing steadily, one billion CFA francs, or around €150 million, seems a little exaggerated.
Talking about market value without any reference points is pointless. It would be interesting to compare this market with other neighboring markets, such as Ghana or other comparable French-speaking countries like Cameroon, for example.
In French-speaking Africa, how do you see the global hygiene and beauty market evolving in terms of turnover, particularly given that the middle class is growing?
It should be noted that the value of the cosmetics market is a combination of three factors: the number of inhabitants, their purchasing power, and their consumption habits. Even though Botswana's consumers spend the most on cosmetics on the entire continent, the market there is fairly limited due to the small population.
That said, these three factors are evolving in a positive direction, leading to growth in the cosmetics markets. The population, and therefore the number of potential customers, is growing in virtually every African country. The same is true of purchasing power, which is leading to changes in the behavior of increasingly demanding consumers. Brands must now commit to this path. This is as true for international brands as it is for those that are "made in Africa."